In the Kitchen with Lee Anne Wong
By Fabiana Santana
If anyone knows a thing or two about the show business of food, it is Lee Anne Wong. She easily made fans on the first season of Top Chef, where she landed a spot in the coveted final four grouping. But Bravo wasn’t done with her after the season ended. She became the culinary producer for the show’s Emmy nominated fifth season and in 2007 she was the chef consultant for Catherine Zeta Jones hit No Reservations. More than impressive stuff from a woman who first decided to study fashion design at NY’s famed Fashion Institute of Technology (just think what this overachiever would have done on Project Runway!)
Her fans flock to taste Lee Anne’s cooking at The International Culinary Center (formerly the French Culinary Institute) where she acts as executive chef of event operations ( a position she held before Season One, fyi) and imparts her culinary wisdom on students in oft sold out cooking series, Cooking with Lee Anne Wong. She still blogs about Top Chef for BravoTV.com and something tells us she has a few more tricks up her toque.
You went from studying fashion at FIT to food at FCI how did that change come about?
I think there’s a natural connection with the artistic and creative expression with both fields. I starting cooking for my friends out of boredom while in college and went from there. The fact that I still get to use my hands to create something is the real thrill. I could not be where I am now had I not had that experience at FIT and in the fashion industry.
How did you hear about top chef and why did you decide to try out for it?
My manager at The French Culinary Institute had met the casting producers on the West Coast and recommended me for the show. I figured, “Why not?” and the rest is history.
Do you watch top chef?
Yes, I do have to watch every episode for my blog on Bravotv.com, though I got behind this past season as I was busy producing another show for Bravo.
How do you think the show has evolved from your season, the show’s first?
We (Season One contestants) use to joke around all the time about how in seasons to come, the contestants would have Evian as the sponsor and win trips to France, etc. Hilarious. Really though the show evolves every season with new challenges and twists, as well as with the new batch of contestants we get to work with. I know from a culinary producer standpoint, I have finally come extremely close to being able to provide the chefs with the dream kitchen and pantry so that they have absolutely everything they need to be at their creative best, equipment and food wise.
What is your first food memory?
Distinctly? The time I was sleepwalking and poured an entire box of Rice Krispies into a colander and then milk…. Parents never let me forget that one. I think I was 5. That same year I made some foolhardy attempt at cookies using peanut butter, oatmeal, eggs, and sugar, all in the toaster oven. My Chinese grandmother caught me, laughed at me, and then proceeded to show me how to make sesame rice balls with red bean paste.
What does food mean to you?
Food is love. It feeds, it delights, and it creates so many memories. I am blessed to love what I do.
How do you develop recipes for the classes?
Each recipe is based around learning certain classic techniques. The recipes are meant to be simple, and flexible in terms of what ingredients can be used and substituted. I also like to consider seasonality and cost effectiveness.
You’re classes are hands on and focus on seasonal ingredients. How intimidating are the classes for beginner home cooks?
The classes are supposed to accomplish quite the opposite of being intimidating and encourage beginner cooks to try out delicious recipes and learn a few great tips and techniques while in a relaxed teaching environment. As stated above, I like to keep the recipes simple, with an emphasis on great ingredients and delicious flavor combinations.
You cover an entire menu in three hours, including dessert…do students work in teams as they do in traditional culinary school?
We pair students up in twos, each pair getting to work on a station in our state of the art Italian kitchen. Everyone in the classroom gets to take part in preparing each course, so one would learn techniques for the appetizer, main course, and dessert.
Are techniques that you cover usable with different ingredients? For example, fish en papillote (baked in parchment), is that a technique that students can experiment on with different ingredients, not just fish?
Absolutely, and the recipes, again, are meant to be flexible. One of the best aspects of cooking is to encourage creativity and innovation. Taking a recipe and making it your own is all a part of the process. Understanding what steps need to happen to substitute a certain protein or ingredient is what cooking is all about. En papillote is a wonderful technique that works with a multitude of ingredients.
The class ends with the students sitting and dining together. How important is that to the learning process?
As they say, the proof is in the pudding. It always happens, and it’s such a great experience when someone says in disbelief and delight, “I made this?” and then they own it, “I made this!” It’s usually when the student sees the end result, the understanding of the technique is finally realized. The dinner is the best part because everyone comes together at a big table, there are plenty of food stories exchanged, and everyone gets to enjoy this delicious meal that they helped create together.
What is your advice for home chefs hoping to take their cooking to the next level?
Taste everything, cook as often as you can. The reason why chefs are so good is because we do it all day every day. Avid home cooks should really consider taking amateur cooking courses. Most nonprofessional cooks more often than not have a few bad techniques in their repertoire. By taking a cooking course, such as La Technique, you learn the fundamentals of proper technique, which can be applied to any type of cuisine.
Do you enjoy cooking for yourself?
I am currently making dinner for myself: trofie pasta with italian sausage, cavolo nero, and smoked mozzarella.
What is your favorite, eat at home, make for your self meal?
I have three: a BLT, pasta carbonara, and a rare, bleeding ribeye.
Can you provide a Cook for Yourself recipe for our readers?
As you wish.
Lobster Mac and Cheese
(Serves 2-4)
1 piece Lobster, 1½ lbs
3 Tablespoons Butter
3 Tablespoons Flour
2 Tablespoons White Wine
1 Tablespoon Brandy
1½ cups Whole Milk
½ cup Heavy Cream
¾ cup Gruyere Cheese, grated
¾ cup Fontina Cheese, grated
¾ cup Cheddar Cheese, grated
¼ cup Parmesan Cheese, finely grated
1 teaspoon Dijon Mustard
Pinch of Nutmeg
Pinch Cayenne Pepper
Salt and Black Pepper
½ lb. Shell Pasta
2 Tablespoon Chives, minced
1 cup Panko Crumbs
1 Tablespoon Butter
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil and drop the lobster in headfirst. Once the water has come back up to a boil, cook the lobster for 3 minutes, removing from the pot and dropping into an ice bath afterwards to stop the cooking.
2. Carefully remove the tail, claw, and knuckle meat from the lobster carcass, discarding the shells. Chop the lobster meat into 1-inch chunks. Set aside.
3. In a medium sauce pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and stir until the mixure begins to brown slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the nutmeg, cayenne and mustard. Add wine and brandy, followed by the milk and cream, stirring constantly to eliminate lumps. Simmer until the mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes.
4. In a large bowl, combine the four cheeses, mixing well. Set aside ¾ cup of cheese. Add the remaining cheese to the béchamel, stirring until the cheese has melted and the sauce is creamy and smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling water until tender but firm to the bite. Drain the pasta from the water and toss with the cheese sauce in the cooking pot. Fold in the lobster chunks and minced chives.
6. Toast the panko crumbs lightly in a pan with 1 tablespoon of melted butter. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Divide the mac and cheese between four ramekins or two shallow casserole dishes. Sprinkle the tops with the remaining cheese and then top with the toasted breadcrumbs and bake in the oven until golden and the tops begin to bubble, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
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